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January 19, 2024

Perspectives from the Athlete

Embarking on Self-Improvement Through Climbing: By Charlie Schreiber, CSCS, CWIP

Perspectives from the Athlete

Charlie Schreiber

Unleashing Creativity Through Climbing

Climbing has been the catalyst for me to authentically express my inner self. In my

pre-climbing days, I identified as a sports enthusiast grappling with ADHD. Engaging in

sports year-round, often participating in multiple clubs and travel teams, I also pursued

activities like skateboarding, sketching, humorously entertaining classmates, and

relishing public performances. My innate love for puzzles and creativity found outlets in

various forms, from crafting stories and designing obstacle courses to fashioning my

action figures!

In my childhood, I possessed physical strength and a fondness for calisthenic exercises,

climbing trees, and navigating boulders and buildings near my home. The challenges of

adhering to team sports rules, imposed on me due to my ADHD, prompted me to seek

an activity that resonated with my true passions.

Coaching

In the realm of coaching, the joy of sharing beta and assisting others became a

cornerstone of my climbing experience. Teaching private lessons to teammates quickly

expanded, and by the age of 16, I found myself dedicating up to five hours a week to

coaching. Transitioning to an assistant coaching role at Gravity Vault's Chatham

location intensified my focus on movement, technique, and mental skills.

An exceptional opportunity arose when I became involved with High Exposure, where I

initiated a team from scratch. This marked the beginning of my coaching career and a

transformative period in my personal growth. Beyond constructing a team, I forged a

family of close-knit friends, treating each member as if they were my own children. My

dedication to ensuring their optimal team experience became an all-encompassing

commitment.

For a continuous four-year stretch, I committed myself to strenuous 60-hour work

weeks, dedicated to route setting, coaching, and traveling for my team. Simultaneously, I

immersed myself in personal training for major competitions like Nationals and World

Cups. This dual focus on aiding others significantly transformed me into a more selfless

individual, where the incessant pondering on ways to support others alleviated the

pressure on my own climbing pursuits. Coaching became a profound catalyst for my

evolution.

The coaching journey propelled me into an extensive exploration of all facets related to

climbing, fitness, and mental performance. This commitment not only bolstered my

mental and physical well-being but also enhanced my professional competence.

Assuming the role of a head coach demanded the development of mature leadership

skills, intertwining with qualities of fun-loving, empathetic, and compassionate

guidance. Choosing to infuse elements of performance and humor, I strive to keep my

athletes laughing, smiling, and deriving enjoyment from various facets of their training.

As the current head coach and founder of Paradigm Climbing

(www.paradigmclimbing.com), concurrently crafting training plans for over 150 athletes

nationwide (ranging from V3 to V15 climbers), I've forged a profound connection and

appreciation for the climbing community in an entirely new dimension. The regular influx

of success stories and expressions of gratitude fuels my desire to delve even deeper

into the coaching realm.

Friends and Community

Reflecting on my journey, the profound impact on my experiences has been attributed to

my closest friends in climbing and my devoted team members. These individuals have

not only boosted my confidence but have also made my experiences enjoyable and

stress-free. They've taken me to the most breathtaking locations worldwide, imparting

valuable life lessons as both a coach and a climber. My most enriching experiences

invariably stem from shared moments outdoors or on trips with these cherished friends.

My children have been instrumental in shaping me into a better individual in numerous

ways. In the realm of coaching, success hinges on the cultivation of patience, trust,

respect, and a profound connection with athletes. This emotional bond serves as a

mental support system, enabling them to feel secure in their vulnerability, ask questions,

fail, and ultimately grow. Infusing laughter, playfulness, and a touch of silliness into

every practice not only keeps me youthful at heart but also serves as a powerful stress

reliever. I've carried this same approach into my relationship with my fiancé, resulting in

a deeply content and harmonious partnership.

Yet, my experiences with coaching youth teams have also imparted valuable lessons on

toughness, accountability, and maintaining focus. Leading a youth team presents

unique challenges compared to guiding a team of adults, a role I also fulfilled as the

previous Head Coach of Reach Climbing and Fitness. Some young athletes aspire to

significant goals but may also veer towards playful behavior, seek shortcuts, exhibit

irregular attendance, get easily distracted, or prematurely give up. Over time, I've learned

to communicate with, inspire, and encourage these individuals with compassion.

Instead of starting interactions with sternness or dismissiveness, I approach them with

a soft tone, a smile, and inspiration to give their best effort. Compassion and gentle

reminders about their goals have proven more effective in guiding them toward

success.

When it comes to mental preparation for competitions, the groundwork begins months

ahead. Instilling the mindset of a winner is crucial, emphasizing goal pursuit, body

training specific to competition demands, and consistently achieving success in training

stimuli that mirror competition conditions. Key components of competition preparation

for me include goal-specific programming, maximizing the quantity and quality of

successes leading up to the event, and meticulously tracking both aspects for tangible

evidence of improvement.

On the day of the competition, I rely on my training journal, videos of recent

achievements, pump-up music, and a familiar warm-up routine to create a sense of

continuity with successful training sessions. If challenges arise, I remind myself of the

primary reasons for being there: to have fun, improve, and face personal challenges.

Every setback becomes a learning opportunity, recorded in my journal and later

integrated into my programming. Viewing poor performances as a study helps alleviate

pressure, and I see the findings as gateways to future success.

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