Beyond-the-Gym Practices Shaping Performance Inside:

In my role as both a coach and a climber, I've observed that the habits we cultivate beyond the gym significantly influence the way I/my athletes perform during training.Presented below is a compilation of crucial habits, ranked in terms of priority, for those aiming to enhance both performance and well-being.

Sleep:Recognizing the paramount importance of sleep cannot be overstated. Both the qualityand quantity of sleep are vital for any athlete aiming to enhance climbing performance.Inadequate sleep quality or duration can compound over time, leading to periods ofreduced performance and an increased risk of injury. The following are my toprecommendations to improve sleep and promote recovery:

Consistency:

● Establish a consistent bedtime and wake-up time to regulate your body's internal clock. This helps those who struggle with falling asleep.

Conditions:

● Sleep in a pitch-black room, using blackout curtains.

● Maintain a cool sleeping environment (around 67 degrees).

● Consider using a noise canceller, white noise app, or a fan near your bed.

● Invest in high-quality bedding for a comfortable sleep experience.

Approach:

● Avoid heavy meals and excessive fluids before bedtime to prevent disruptions.

● Steer clear of alcohol and caffeine, as they can significantly disturb sleep.

● Minimize exposure to blue lights and screens at least an hour before bedtime.

● Engage in relaxing activities such as meditation, breathing exercises, or reading to wind down.

Setbacks Impacted by Drinking, Smoking, Overindulging:

Recognize that setbacks, defined as factors hindering your next session's performance, are often influenced by lifestyle choices. Drinking alcohol excessively, smoking, using cigarettes/vapes/marijuana, or overindulging in food, particularly junk food, can impede recovery and damage the body. Consistent good days of incremental gains are the foundation of effective training. These activities have the potential to set you back, making it crucial to prioritize consistent positive choices.Planning:The adage "if you fail to plan, you plan to fail" holds true. Devote time at the start of each month and week to plan your training sessions. Organize sessions with those who motivate you and prioritize training over less crucial social events. Plan your meals weekly to avoid resorting to fast food due to poor planning. Maintain a list of daily necessities in your backpack, including healthy snacks, water bottles, massage tools, and supplements.

Nutrition and Water Intake:

Rather than delving into an extensive discussion of nutritional principles, consider the following strategies:

● Add electrolytes to your water before sessions to enhance muscle performanceand recovery.

● Strive to stay alkaline to promote health and faster recovery by reducinginflammation.

● Utilize protein shakes post-workout for faster muscle protein absorption andinclude post-workout carbs to replenish glycogen.

Aim for high-nutrition foods to optimize your body's performance.

Nature Exposure and Stress Release:

Spending time in nature is not only instinctively appealing but also a proven stressreducer. Just a few minutes outside each day, in addition to providing Vitamin D, canlower cortisol levels in the body. Athletes undergoing intense training often haveelevated cortisol levels, impacting cognitive functions and delaying recovery.Incorporate activities that bring joy, laughter, and peace into your life to recharge bothyour body and mind amidst the stresses of training and daily life.

‍

For more information:

Stay Alkaline:https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/acidic-foods#high-acid-food-and-drink

‍Better Sleep: https://www.cdc.gov/sleep/about_sleep/sleep_hygiene.html

‍Alcohol: https://www2.hse.ie/living-well/alcohol/health/physical-health/sports-performance

Stress:https://www.takingcharge.csh.umn.edu/how-does-nature-impact-our-wellbeing

***This article mentions the personal decision to follow an alkaline diet.If you, as an athlete, want to follow a specific diet plan, we recommend you meet with aRegistered Dietitian and talk to your doctor. We support a well-balanced healthy relationship with food.If you are interested in learning what the research says about alkaline diets here are some sources:

Everyday Health: What is the Alkaline Diet? Review, Research, Food List, and More

Applegate, C., Mueller, M., & Zuniga, K. E. (2017). Influence of dietary acid load on exercise performance. International journal of sport nutrition and exercise metabolism,27(3), 213-219.

Passey, C. (2017). Reducing the dietary acid load: how a more alkaline diet benefits patients with chronic kidney disease. Journal of renal nutrition, 27(3), 151-160.